Wood Blinds

Wood Blinds Throughout Franklin

Stain that answers 1850s casing, not a paint chip

Call (317) 999-5154Get Free Quote
Quick Answer

The questions below deal with specification rather than sales. Sizing, mount type, material choice and operation. Get those right and the aesthetic decisions take care of themselves.

  • Service: Wood Blinds for Franklin homeowners
  • Service area: Franklin, IN and surrounding areas
  • For a new order, plan on a measure appointment, then two to five weeks of fabrication, then an install visit. For a broken tilt gear or a dead battery, it's usually a single short visit and no waiting.
  • Insured and bonded
  • Serving Franklin, IN since 2008
Wood Blinds Services

Expert Wood Blinds for Franklin Homes

Real wood belongs to Franklin's older tenth. 1,084 homes here predate 1940, more than twice what Greenwood holds in absolute terms, and the Martin Place Historic District packs 27 contributing buildings of that period into a handful of central streets. Those houses carry deep wood or plaster lined returns and stained casing that a painted slat will never sit beside honestly. Italianate parlors, Queen Anne bays and the wide porch front triple of an American Foursquare all read better with basswood in them. The catch is that the usable depth changes from one opening to the next inside a single house, so we measure each window instead of carrying a dimension from the front room to the back bedroom.

Wood moves. The muggy season here runs from about May 25 to September 22, and January averages a low of 20.9 degrees, and that yearly swing is exactly what cups a slat. We won't put basswood over a kitchen sink or into a hall bath, a laundry room gets the same answer, and we'd rather say so before you fall for a stain sample. Weight is the second limit. A wide run of 2.5 inch basswood is heavy enough that the ladder strings and the tilt gear wear faster than they would on a narrow opening. Over roughly five feet we split the window or move you to a composite that takes paint and refuses stain.

When to Call

Signs You Need Wood Blinds

If you notice any of these in your Franklin home, it is worth booking a measure. None of it is urgent, and none of it fixes itself either.

The bedroom blind creeps down overnight on its own

Painted blinds look chalky against fresh millwork

Old slats have lightened on the sun side only

A study feels unfinished every time you walk in

One corner of the opening sits visibly lower than the other

A living room span is wider than a support bracket allows

Cloth tapes on the existing blinds have frayed through

The dining room has had bare windows for years

You added a room and the stain no longer matches

A high window nobody can reach stays closed all year

Our Process

How Franklin Window Treatments Handles Wood Blinds

Every job follows the same five-step process. Transparent, thorough, and done right the first time.

1

Three widths, three heights

2

Tapes and valance selected

3

Stack height estimated with you

4

Finish name recorded for reorders

5

Old units and packaging hauled off

Real Project Photos

Wood Blinds in Franklin

Photographs from real wood blinds jobs completed by our crew in Franklin and surrounding areas.

Custom shades measured and installed in FranklinPlantation shutters fitted to a Franklin windowCellular shades in a Franklin living room
Scope of Work

What Wood Blinds Includes

Every Franklin job is documented item by item. Here is what the crew covers.

Room-by-room check that every opening stays conditioned all year before wood goes onto the order

Wet rooms ruled out in writing, because a bath or a window over a sink is a faux wood job

Three widths and three heights per opening, plus a diagonal check for square

Mounting depth measured so the headrail sits fully inside the opening where an inside mount is wanted

Basswood specified as the working standard, with heavier species used only where the grain has to carry a room

Slat size chosen against the opening height and the weight of the existing casing

Wider single spans priced without a support bracket, since wood weighs less per foot than composite does

Stain or paint matched from a physical sample held against your actual trim in your actual light

Grain variation and color drift across a stained order explained before anything gets signed

Cloth tape ladders selected where a woven band suits the room and hides the route holes

Routeless construction offered where a line of lit holes would bother you at night

Valance profile and return depth chosen to sit correctly against existing millwork

Wand tilt set as the default, with cord tilt only where a wand fouls a handle or a return

Cordless lift specified in bedrooms, stairwells and any room children use

Products specified to conform to ANSI/WCMA A100.1-2022 for cord access

Light gap per side disclosed at the measure and carried onto the paperwork

Written contract with scope, dates and total price, as IC 24-5-11 requires on residential work over $150

Slats leveled and both full tilt travel and full lift travel tested at every window on install day

Pricing

What Wood Blinds Cost in Franklin

Published national figures for the category put stock blinds and shades near $60 to $600 a window, with custom-fabricated product running roughly $250 to $2,600. Those are national ranges and they aren't a quote for a house in Franklin. Real wood sits above faux wood in that band and it should, because you're paying for a milled hardwood slat and a finish that has to look right next to your existing trim. Size drives the number first. After that it's the finish: a stock stain costs less than a color matched to millwork, and a matched finish sometimes means a sample run before production. Cloth tapes, a deco valance and routeless slats each add. Franklin Window Treatments prices from measured openings in Johnson County, never from an average.

By Product

How Wood Blinds Differ by Product

Every product in this trade behaves differently in a room. Here is what that means for this work.

2 inch basswood slat: Our working standard in real wood. Basswood is light for its stiffness, which is exactly what you want in a lift mechanism, and the 2 inch slat suits the openings and the casing we find in most central Indiana houses.

2 1/2 inch basswood slat: The same species with a wider face, so fewer slats cross the opening and the view out improves when they're tilted open. It suits taller windows and rooms with substantial casing, where a narrow slat starts to look busy against the trim.

Heavier hardwood species: Some lines offer denser woods that take a stain with more figure than basswood shows. They cost more and they weigh more, so we reserve them for a room where the blind is meant to be looked at rather than looked through.

Stained finish: A transparent finish that lets grain read through, which is the reason to buy wood at all. Expect variation from slat to slat, because that's the wood talking. We hold a physical sample against your trim before committing anything to an order.

Painted finish: An opaque finish in white or an off-white, which gives you wood's light weight and a face that reads as painted millwork. It's the right call when the blind should disappear into the trim instead of standing apart from it.

Custom color match: The factory matches a finish to a sample you supply, usually a piece of your casing or a stair part. It adds cost and time, sometimes a sample run before production, and it's the only honest way to hit an existing stain.

Cloth tape ladders: A woven tape running down the face of the blind that covers the route holes and adds a color band. On a stained wood blind it's a strong design move, and it narrows the view a little wherever a tape crosses the slats.

Routeless wood slats: The lift cord sits in a notch at the back edge instead of a punched hole, so a closed blind has no line of bright dots across it. In a bedroom with a streetlight outside, that's the difference people actually notice.

Crown or deco valance: A shaped valance with a deeper face than the standard flat one, meant to read as trim rather than as a cover for hardware. Choose it where the casing is heavy enough that a plain valance would look thin against it.

Cordless lift: A constant-force spring in the headrail with no lift cord on the blind at all. Wood's lower weight makes cordless feel better here than it does on composite, and it's what we put in bedrooms and anywhere along a stairwell.

Common Questions

Wood Blinds FAQ

Questions we hear most often from Franklin homeowners considering wood blinds.

Close enough to look intentional, not close enough to be invisible, and the difference matters when the trim is between 90 and 175 years old. Finishes that age shift, and a shellac or varnish laid down in the 1880s has amber in it that no factory stain card reproduces. What we do is bring samples into the actual room and hold them against the actual casing in that window's own light, because a north facing parlor and a south facing stair hall will not agree. If the match lands awkwardly, painted wood in the ceiling color often reads better than a stain that misses by a little.
Not on the arch itself. Round arch and segmental arch heads are documented on the Italianate houses in the Martin Place district, and a slat blind needs a straight header to hang from, so the arch has to be treated separately or left alone. Usually we mount the blind at the spring line, where the straight part of the opening ends, and leave the curved head bare. That's often the better answer anyway, because those arched heads and the leaded and stained transoms in the same district are the features people bought the house for. Covering them to gain a few inches of light control is a poor trade.
Because the openings are not square and pretending otherwise produces a blind that binds. Assume out of square in the pre-1940 tenth of Franklin's stock, and assume it again in anything from the 1940 to 1979 layer, 2,558 units, that has settled on Johnson County clay. Width comes off the tape at three heights and we order to the tightest of them, then a diagonal check tells us how far the opening has racked. A quarter inch of racking across a six foot opening is enough to make a wood blind tilt unevenly along its length. Better to find it with a tape than after the box arrives.
They can be, with the span handled properly. Stonybrook's recorded lot acreage runs 0.99 and 1.13 acres where the county populates the field, roughly three times a typical production lot, and larger lots in this market carry larger houses with something like 16 to 24 openings. The plat fronts East 250 South, an east west county road, so those frontage houses take north or south light on the principal elevation. On a wide living room window we pair two blinds beneath one continuous wood valance instead of hanging a single loaded headrail that settles in the middle over time.
It closes the top of the opening. On an inside mount there's a gap between the headrail and the header where light spills through, and a valance with returns on both ends covers it while hiding the brackets and the tilt mechanism. In a Franklin house from the 1850 to 1935 period, where casing profiles are deep and often original, that valance is also where a blind either matches the room or fights it, so we size the return to the depth of the actual opening rather than shipping a stock length. Dust settles on the top edge, so plan to run a cloth along it a few times a year.
Because it will fail and we'd rather lose that one window than the trust. Kingsbridge plans run three to six bedrooms with three and four baths on the 3-Car Venture series, so there are several of these openings in one house, and every one of them takes steam a couple of times a day. Hardwood swells and then dries back. The slat cups, and the tilt goes uneven along the run. Faux wood in the same slat width and a close color costs less and lasts. National custom pricing spans roughly $250 to $2,600 per window across all materials, so the saving isn't the argument. The performance is.
Because wood answers moisture by moving, and a bathroom gives it plenty to answer. A slat that takes on humidity swells slightly across its width, then gives that moisture back when the room dries out, and after enough cycles it doesn't come back straight. You get cupping along the slat and a blind that stops closing evenly. Faux wood has no fiber left to swell, so it does that job instead. In a white blind, from across the room, you'd have a hard time telling which is which anyway.
It runs it through two opposite conditions. The muggy stretch here goes from late May into late September, so a wood slat spends about four months taking on humidity. Then the heat comes on, indoor air gets dry, and the same slat gives that moisture back over a heated winter. In a conditioned room that cycle is mild and the blind is fine for years. In a room that swings, a sunroom or an unconditioned porch, it's the cycle that eventually takes a slat out of flat.
For most of what we hang, yes. Basswood is stable, mills cleanly, and it's light for its stiffness, which matters more than people expect. Weight is what a lift mechanism fights, and a lighter slat means a wider blind can work as one unit and a cordless lift feels smoother in the hand. Denser species exist and they show more figure under a stain, but they cost more and they add weight. We use them where a room is really about the look of the wood.
Usually close, sometimes exactly, and never from a screen. We bring physical samples and hold them against your casing in the light that room actually gets, because a stain that looks right under a showroom lamp can read orange at four in the afternoon. If nothing in the standard range lands, a custom color match sends a sample of your trim to the factory. That adds cost and time. It's also the only method that gets you there, so we'd rather quote it honestly up front.
Because it's wood. Grain runs differently through each piece, stain sits into open grain more heavily than into tight grain, and a slat cut from one part of a board takes color a little differently from its neighbor. On a stained blind that variation is the product working as intended, not a fault. If you want a face with no variation at all, a painted wood blind or a composite slat is the honest way to get it, and we'll say so before you order.
Wood is fine there as long as the room stays conditioned, which a living room does. What you should know is that a stained wood slat sitting in direct afternoon sun will lighten over years, and it lightens on the sun side more than the shaded side, so a wide window can end up reading unevenly. NFRC puts UV at roughly 40 to 60 percent of fading damage. Tilting the slats up bounces the direct sun toward the ceiling and slows the change. It doesn't halt it.
Wider than the same blind in composite, which is one of the practical arguments for wood. Every manufacturer publishes a maximum width and a maximum square footage, and those limits are really weight limits. Basswood weighs less per running foot than a faux wood slat of the same size, so a span that would want a center support bracket or a two-on-one headrail in composite can often stay a single unit in wood. We check the actual numbers against your measured opening before ordering.
They're woven tapes that run vertically down the face of the blind, covering the route holes and carrying a color band. Mechanically almost nothing changes, since the ladder still holds the slats and the lift still runs the same way. What changes is the look, quite a lot, and the view, slightly, because each tape sits across the slats and blocks a narrow strip when they're open. Frayed tapes on an old blind are one of the common reasons people replace an otherwise working unit.
On a tall window the wider slat usually wins. Fewer slats cross the opening, the face reads calmer, and the view between open slats is better, which matters more the more window there is. The 2 1/2 inch slat also suits heavier casing, and older houses in Franklin often have casing worth respecting. Where we go back to 2 inch is a short window, a transom or a room with delicate trim, since a wide slat there swamps the opening it's sitting in.
They slow it, and that's the accurate word. NFRC attributes roughly 40 to 60 percent of fading damage to UV, with the rest coming from visible light and heat, so no window covering ends the problem outright. A closed wood blind is an opaque layer, which does more than a sheer fabric, and tilting the slats upward on a sunny afternoon keeps direct sun off a hardwood floor while the room stays usable. That's a real reduction in exposure rather than an end to it.
You can order more, and you should expect a small difference. Stain lots vary, wood varies, and a blind built next year comes from different boards than the ones hanging now. Across a hallway nobody sees it. On two windows in the same wall it's obvious. The practical answer is to order a room complete rather than half of it, even where a window seems low priority. We write the exact finish name onto your paperwork so a later order at least starts from the right reference.
Dry first, always. Close the slats one direction, run a dry microfiber cloth or a vacuum brush across the face, then close them the other way and repeat. For a mark that won't dust off, use a barely damp cloth and dry it immediately. Don't soak a slat, don't use a spray cleaner across the whole blind, and never put a wood blind in water the way people sometimes do with vinyl. Cloth tapes want a soft brush rather than anything wet.
In a bedroom or along a stairwell, yes. There's no lift cord on the product at all, which is the direction the ANSI/WCMA A100.1-2022 work on cord access points, and inner-cord non-compliance is treated as a substantial product hazard under 16 CFR 1120.3. Beyond that, a cordless wood blind is simply nicer to use every day, and wood's lighter weight makes the mechanism feel smoother than it does on a heavy composite unit. On very wide blinds we still talk through whether motorization is the better answer.
Custom fabrication runs two to five weeks in this trade, and stained wood tends toward the longer end because finishing is a separate step at the factory. A custom color match adds more, sometimes a sample run before production even starts. None of that is a delay. It's a factory milling and finishing slats to sizes taken in your house. You'll get the window in writing with scope, dates and total price, which the Indiana Home Improvement Contract Act requires on residential work over $150.
Free In-Home Measure

Schedule Your Free In-Home Measure in Franklin

Contact Information

Reach Us Directly

Our team prioritizes scheduled measures and service calls, and books in-home measures during business hours.

Office
1417 Commerce Avenue, Indianapolis, IN 46201
Hours
Mon-Fri 8a-6p
Service Area
Franklin, IN and Surrounding Areas

Ready to Book Your Measure?

Call us to set up an in-home measure, or to ask about a treatment that has stopped working. We will talk it through on the phone first.

Service area

Serving Franklin and the surrounding area

Call NowGet Quote